OK, so this is a test. When was the last time you purchased lipstick? You know, the cosmetic for lips that delivers colour in a swivel-up tube. Can’t remember? Well, maybe because you’re part of the nearly 70% of Gen Z makeup wearers who say their makeup of choice for lips is gloss. That’s right, not lipstick.
The beauty industry is witnessing a significant shift in lip makeup preferences, with traditional lipsticks taking a backseat to more nourishing alternatives like lip oils, glosses, and balms. This trend also reflects a broader movement towards skincare-infused makeup, emphasizing lip health and comfort over long-lasting colour. Moreover, with the surge of lip blush (essentially, a light tattoo) and volumizing procedures (read: filler injections), lip beauty is not something you necessarily only get out of a tube, anymore.
For decades, lipstick has been a staple in makeup routines, offering a range of colours and finishes to suit any look. However, recent years have seen a decline in its popularity. Some experts in the industry attribute this shift to simplified makeup routines brought on by the pandemic and the decline in the heavy artistry-focused makeup looks popularized in the late 2010s. Can you say contouring?
On social media beauty trends, there is a heartfelt desire to forgo lipstick, altogether. And in terms of looks, we’ve moved away from the matte, velvety lips created with liquid lipsticks. Enter lip cremes, which are much more nourishing and contain ingredients like jojoba oil, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid. But despite the lipstick demise, the lip category is still growing with lip balms, lip oils and overnight lip masks taking over. In June 2023, even Kylie Cosmetics, an early ambassador of liquid lipsticks back in 2014, launched a selection of tinted butter balms. Which says a lot…
Shiny Pouts
Lip gloss came about in the 1930s by Max Factor, who created makeup for Hollywood actresses to wear in films. It was specially designed to give a shiny appearance to lips on camera; a coveted look in the era of black and white silent movies. The first commercially available lip gloss was called X-Rated and it launched in 1932.
But despite its early introduction, lip gloss didn’t become a makeup essential until the 1970s, just in time for the disco era.
In 1973, American drugstore beauty brand Bonne Bell created Lip Smackers, which became hugely popular among schoolgirls who finally had their own lip cosmetic with a tinge of transparent colour and dessert-like flavours including Dr. Pepper, Watermelon, Cherry Kool-Aid, and Rock Candy. Yummy. Unfortunately, many of the glosses of the era were mainly formulated with questionnable ingredients, among them petrolatum by-products, which we now eschew.
The current crop of lip glosses has nothing to do with the older formulations, with their gloopy stickiness and artificial tastes and smells.
Instead, today’s lip glosses nourish lips just as well as a traditional balm. At the same time, they offer a non-sticky shine and a barely-there touch of colour that complements the no-makeup look. Other popular lip products include lip oils and overnight masks, which offer similar nourishment. As a result, lipstick and its cousin, liquid lipstick, are no longer the basic building blocks of a beauty routine.
The Buzz About Lip Oil
Like its predecessors, namely hair oil and face oil, true oleaginous cosmetics entered the chat when lip oils were introduced in 2013. Since then, they have been steadily gaining momentum and really blew up in 2022.
The transition from lipstick to lip oil didn’t happen overnight. Viral beauty trends such as the “clean girl,” “strawberry girl” and “latte girl” aesthetics, certainly played a part.
Although lip oils remain niche, making up just 4% of global lip care launches in 2021, they do offer an alternative to classic lip glosses. They’ve also become a beauty trend on their own with their minimalist, high-shine finish. On TikTok, the #lipoil hashtag has accumulated an impressive 2.4 billion views, with brands like Dior, Rare Beauty and E.l.f. Cosmetics ranking in the most mentions. Among Canadian cosmetics brands, Lise Watier’s ‘Love My Lips Caring Lip Oil’ is available in a wash of five different shades and is much more affordable, at $28, than the celebrity cult favourite Dior Lip Glow Oil, at $54.
So what’s the difference with lip gloss? Well, oils are usually lighter, more viscous, and made with a true oil base (coconut or jojoba are usually the most popular), and many have also added botanical extracts essential oils and vitamins to soothe, protect and moisturize lips. Cosmeticians usually divide the two categories into ‘treatment’ (the oils) and ‘glam’ (lip gloss).
Hyaluronic Acid, Peptides and Masks
In the wake of the backlash against over-plumping and fillers (we’ve all seen the super puffed faces online…), some consumers have been looking for alternatives when it comes to lip products.
Lip fillers, once a staple in aesthetics clinics, are now facing a shift in perception because of overuse (too much, all over the face) and overfilling causing migration, which happens when the filler moves above the upper lip. Some influencers even filmed their own dissolving sessions (it burns like crazy!) to embrace their natural features. As a result, lip fillers are no longer the sole focus of lip beauty trends. In their place, the conversation is shifting to hyaluronic acid- and peptides-based lip products that draw moisture into the skin, providing hydration, so lips are smoother while making them appear fuller.
If you’re still going the injection route (no judgement whatsoever), some dermatologists recommend applying lip treatments with hyaluronic acid and peptides three to four times a day to increase the longevity of fillers. Yes, they do work. And Clinique is a favourite brand to achieve that.
Because they’re devoid of oil glands and their skin is paper thin, lips are prone to dryness, cracking, fine lines, and sun damage.With the right lip mask, you can give your lips the TLC they deserve. And it’s impossible to mention lip masks without talking about Laneige, a Korean brand founded in 1994 which concocted the hugely popular Lip Sleeping Mask. Available in six flavours, including the original berry, it is formulated to hydrate, soothe and moisturize lips at night. And a must-have to endure the climatic stress endured by our faces during those cold Canadian winters.
And if you’re in your true ‘luxury girl era,’ maybe it’s time to splurge on Baume de rose by Terry, a decadently rich, cult-classic balm that nourishes and repairs dry lips and cuticles, in the same spirit that Dior’s Crème de Rose Smoothing Plumping Lip Balm (sadly discontinued) was a multipurpose product and an amazing lip moisturizer. But that’s another story…
